4kW of power and a top speed of 34mph! Not bad for some 3D printed parts! This setup is super fun to ride, however it does require a few minor modifications. All stl 3D printer files are uploaded to my Patreon page! Support me for just $1 per month to gain access to all my future project files! https://www.patreon.com/tomstanton
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Are you charge the battery as you pedal? If not that would be a cool upgrade down the line.
Try putting a disk brake
how the motor can be 4kw?
Why you don't put engine under frame only on side ,please answer me please
I gave you a score of thumbs up Tom ! How ever you need to go to the hypodrome in London and dance with some hot English tarts once in a while! Colledge life is not all just work and no play m8! Cheers you fucking cunt! LOL!
loba teuing ngomong.. loba teori
Wow amazing
interested in this build. Has it kept up since this video? also please email me at [email protected]gmail.com for a business enquiry on if i could do the same with my bike
Make one with a decoupler bearing in the drive train! For coast!
Labas.Puiki įdėję prietaisas nedidelis.Leisk į gamybą sumažinimo gamtos užterštumo pasiektume reikiamą vietą su dviračiu.Super???????????
Hobby cars don't weigh 200lb. That speedcontrol was not defective, you severely overloaded it.
Thank You Jako lijepo napravljeno
11:37 Print you a spacer to place between the two motors. You can make it adjustable to increase and decrease tension. That would make less stress on the belt.
very nice this is very special quality , you are ingenious I would have never thought of using the 3d printer
Your setup is very cool. Nice job!
Зачет)))
SUBSCRIBED (and I'm in Dallas Texas 🙂
How about 4 motors?
Hi Tom,I may be able to help later, howeve I wanted to share a few idea that poped up in my head while watching 1)Why not try solid mecanical gears interconnection on the two small motors instead of the rubber pulley ?(since they so close together)
2)Then in the middle and on top a small generator putting back or recharging the battery.(same size but wired to generate electricity into the battery.) Also a wind or 4 small stanup wind generators (no more than 5 inches high;2 front and back.
When the motors are not being powered and the bike is still coasting the motors are still spinning. Wouldn't that break your electronics?
The type of belt you're using for this application is inappropriate. Respectfully, you should consider deploying a proper belt with significant torque and deformity resistance specification. Specifically consider a Polytech P.urethane Belt with Kevlar Crods/ finger spliced & welded (permits accurate length / tension adjustment) use a DX2-40 to gauge in order to protect both the belt and pulleys. I would also suggest purchasing lightweight cast aluminum pulleys to match the torque spec of the belt. Your current materials are unfortunately not proper especially for in-climate weather exposure. Cheers mate.
maybe for some electronics check alienpowersystem.com
That looks like Hatfield? Just out of curiosity. I lived there for a year. 😀
hey you Tom Stanton
I like your videos too
cool design Tom
take the best from your 1st design and 2nd design and mount double motor design up further, perhaps back on the rack or new mount, can use both rear drops and rack to provide more support in multiple places.
Right now your single one sided rear drop mount has a pivot-twist issue, only one mount point, shear strength of tubing where mounted with fatigue during use will eventually fail I think. For a constant fiddling person that would notice the frame going south, and getting a used frame to replace might be ok for some but not viable as a product.
This will remove the issue with the motors sticking out, of an otherwise brilliant and flawless design.
Motors and rack combo would be over wheel with belt between motors on one side and drive wheel on other.
Also do you have ratcheting motor drive side hub?
This is good for coasting and dead battery bicycle mode, but then cannot regen on down hills.
Clutch added would allow both but adds to cost complexity.